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When assembling a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might expect well-known award-winning names. Yet, nestled prominently among these gastronomic giants is a modest salonu found in a far-flung corner of northern London.

A Surprise Honour

This compact Turkish spot, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. This accolade has left the proprietors completely surprised.

“I’m utterly surprised,” remarks the owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ dedication that led to their humble restaurant securing such a lofty position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its original character. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” comments the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this restaurant definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy texture.

It is then added into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. As the savoury mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic called this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than is typical, giving it a deeper, more aromatic and less sickly taste.

Rising Above the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the top of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, comparable meals at luxury establishments can run into many times that figure.

The Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is echoed by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to show what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at elite establishments. “I feel truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a personal life but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to echo beyond its own walls. “In my opinion numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the wider significance of this gastronomic honour.